Drummers’ procession. Easter Sunday in Madrid
Here is some information on the main processions in the older part of Madrid. The processions in standard type have been updated for this year, others in italics are based on previous years so may have some changes – not many, as these are all quite traditional. If I find more information I’ll do updates – my best source is usually posters in the street so may not be perfect, but once you find the start of the procession, it’s easy to follow.
EASTER DATES IN 2020:
- Palm Sunday: April 5
- Holy Thursday: April 9
- Good Friday: April 10
- Easter Sunday: April 12
- Easter Monday: April 13
Easter week vocabulary:
- paso: Carved statue on a platform, usually carried but can be on wheels
- confradía: Groups sponsering different pasos, different saints, or from different chuches. Can have friendly or less-friendly rivalry with another confradía
- encuentro: Encounter between two different pasos, something to watch for as paso bearers can make their paso dance or sway to greet the other paso.
Remember that the beginning of procession at the church is always special. See the end for some hints on procession-watching.
More info on these websites. Sometimes they are late in updating from previous years, check their dates to avoid disappointments
https://www.esmadrid.com/print/71124
https://www.programasemanasanta.com/madrid/madrid/
Palm Sunday:
4.30PM, Catedral de Santa María la Real de La Almudena, calle Bailén, 10. Metro Opera. One “paso”, Jesus in his Triumphal Entrance in Jerusalem (“the borriquita”). Route: Plaza de la Armería, c/ Bailén, c/ Mayor, c/ Factor, c/ Biombo, c/ de San Nicolás, c/ Juan de Herrera, c/ Calderón de la Barca, Travesía de los Señores de Luzón, c/ de los Señores de Luzón, plazuela de Santiago, c/ Santiago, costanilla de Santiago, Plaza de las Moreras, Plaza de los Herradores, calle de las Fuentes, calle de los Donados, calle Flora, calle de San Martin, Plaza de las Descalzas, calle de la Misericordia, calle Maestro Victoria, calle Rompelanzas, calle del Carmen, calle de la Salud, calle de las Tres Cruces, c/ Valverde, c/ Puebla, c/ Corredera Baja de San Pablo, plaza de San Ildefonso, c/ Corredera Alta de San Pablo, c/ la Palma, Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de las Maravillas (c/ de la Palma).
Very long route, partly north of Gran Via.
6.30PM, Basilica Pontifica San Miguel, calle San Justo 4. Metro La Latina. Two “pasos”, Cristo de la Fe y Perdon (18th c)Maria Santisima Imaculada (“Los Estudiantes”). Usual route: calle del Cordón, Plaza de la Villa, Señores de Luzon, Plazo Biombo, Calderon de la Barca, Juan de Herrera, San Nicolas, Plaza Biombo, Factor, Rebeque, Noblejas, Plaza Ramales, Plaza Santiago, Santa Clara, Vergara, Plaza Isabel II, Independencia, Lazo, Union, Conde de Lemos, Espejo, calle Santiago, Milaneses, Plaza San Miguel, Plaza Conde de Barajas, Gomez Mora, San Justo, return to church.
Easter Wednesday
8.15 PM, Nuestra Señora del Carmen y San Luis church, calle Carmen 10. Metro Sol and Callao. “Pasos”, Nuestro Padre Jesus de la Salud (“Los Gitanos”). Route: calle Salud, calle Carmen, Puerta del Sol, calle Correo, Plaza Marqués de Pontejos, calle Paz, calle Bolsa, Plaza Jacinto Benavente, Calle Atocha, Iglesia Santa Cruz (estación de penitencia), Plaza Provincia, calle Gerona, Plaza Mayor, calle Sal, calle Postas, calle San Cristobal, Travesia Arenal, calle Arenal, Plaza Celenque, calle Tetuan, Calle Carmen, calle de la Salud, return to church.
8.45 PM San Andrés church, Plaza de Carros, Metro La Latina. “Paso” Santisimo Cristo de las Tres Caidas. Route: Plaza de los Carros, Plaza San Andrés, calle Almendro, Pretil Santiestban, calle Nuncio, Estación Penitencia San Pedro el Viejo church aprox 10.15pm, Puerta Cerrada, Gomez Mora, Plaza Conde de Barajas, Maestro VIlla, Cuchilleros, Cava San MIguel, Ciudad Rodrigo, Plaza Mayor, Sal, Postas, Zaragoza, Fresa, Plaza Provincia, Salvador, Lechuga, Imprerial, Toledo, Latoneros, Puerta Cwerrada, Cava Baja, Plaza Humilladero, Plaza San Andrés, return to church
Easter Thursday
7PM, Iglesia San Pedro, calle Nuncio 14. Metro La Latina. “Pasos” Jesus Nazareno “El Pobre” (very famous “paso”) and Maria Santisima Dulce Nombre en su Soledad. USUAL Route: Calle Nuncio, Plaza Puerta Cerrada, Calle San Justo, calle Sacramento, Plaza Cordon, Plaza Villa, calle Mayor, calle Ciudad Rodrigo, Plaza Mayor, calle Toledo, Cava Alta, Grafal, San Bruno, Cava Baja, Puerta Cerrada, calle Nuncio, return to church.
8PM: Colegiata San Isidro, calle Toledo 37. Metro La Latina. “Pasos”: Jesus del Gran Poder “paso” (very popular), Maria Santisima de la Esperanza Macarena. USUAL Route: calle Toledo, calle Colegiata, calle Duque de Rivas, calle Concepción Jerónima, Plaza de Segovia Nueva, Plaza de Puerta Cerrada, calle San Justo (Palacio Episcopal), Plaza del Cordón, calle Cordón, Plaza de la Villa (Old City Hall), calle de los Señores de Luzón, Plaza de Santiago, calle Santiago, calle Milaneses, Plaza de San Miguel, calle Conde de Miranda, Plaza del Conde de Miranda (Corpus Christi convent), Plaza del Conde de Barajas, calle Maestro Villa, calle Cava de San Miguel, Travesía de Bringas, calle Ciudad Rodrigo, Plaza Mayor, calle Gerona, Plaza de la Provincia, calle Salvador, calle Concepción Jerónima, calle Toledo, return to church
Good Friday
7 PM: Iglesia Santisimo Cristo de la Fe, calle Atocha 87 bis. Metro Anton Martin. Silent procession. “Pasos”: Nuestro Padre Jesús del Perdón. Route: calle Atocha, plaza Anton Martin, Plaza Matute, calle Huertas, calle Principe, Plaza Canalejas, Carrera de San Jerónimo, Puerta de Sol, calle Correo, calle Paz, calle Bolsa, Plaza Jacinto Benavente, Plaza del Angel, Plaza Sta Ana, calle Prado, calle Echegaray, Infante, Leon, calle Lope de Vega (stop at the Trinitarias Descalzas convent),Costanilla de las Trinitarias, calle San José, calle Moratín, Costanilla de los Desamparados, calle Atocha, return to church.
7 PM: Palacio Real – Puerta del Principe, calle Bailen s/n. Metro Opera and Plaza de España. “Paso”: Santisimo Cristo de la Fe, Cristo de los Alabarderos (the Alabarderos are part of the guard corps for the monarchy) and Maria Imaculada de los Angeles. Route: Puerta del Príncipe at the Palace, Plaza de Oriente, calle Bailén, calle Mayor, calle Sacramento, Plaza del Cordón, calle Cordón, Plaza de la Villa, calle Mayor, calle Ciudad Rodrigo, Plaza Mayor, calle Sal, calle Postas, calle San Cristóbal, calle Mayor, entrance Armed Forces church on Mayor near Bailen. This route is very pretty. Good “encuentro” in the Plaza de la Villa with the 7.30 procession from Santa Cruz church: logical but not shown on itinerary this year
7 PM, Basilica de Nuestro Padre Jesus de Medinaceli, Plaza de Jesus, 2, Metro Banco de España and Atocha. “Paso” Cristo de Medinaceli (very famous). Route: Plaza de Jesús, calle Duque de Medinaceli, Plaza de las Cortes, Carrera de San Jerónimo, Puerta del Sol, calle Alcalá (encuentro with Nuestra Señorade la Soledad y Desamparo, calle Alcalá, 25 at about 8.30pm), Plaza de Cibeles, Paseo del Prado, Plaza de Cánovas del Castillo, Carrera de San Jerónimo, calle Duque de Medinaceli, Plaza de Jesús, return to church
7.00 PM: Iglesia Santa Cruz, calle Atocha 6. Metro Sol. “Pasos”: Maria Santisima de los Siete Dolores, Santisimo Cristo de la Agonia y Descendimiento de la Santa Cruz. Route: calle Atocha, Plaza de la Provincia, Gerona, Plaza Mayor, Toledo, Latoneros, Plaza de Puerta Cerrada, calle Cuchilleros, calle Maestro Villa, Plaza del Conde de Barajas, calle de la Pasa, Plaza del Conde de Miranda, Corpus Christi (Carboneras) convent about 8.30pm, calle Codo, Plaza de la Villa, calle Mayor, calle Ciudad Rodrigo, Plaza Mayor, calle Gerona, Plaza de la Provincia, calle Atocha, return to church. This route is VERY pretty, narrow streets in the old quarter. Good “encuentro” in the Plaza de la Villa with the Alabarderos “paso”
8.00 PM: Iglesia Santa Cruz, calle Atocha 6. Metro Sol. “Pasos”: Cristo de la Vida Eterna, Nuestra Señora de la Paz. Route: calle Atocha, Plaza de Jacinto Benavente, calle Carretas, Puerta del Sol, calle Mayor, calle Ciudad Rodrigo, Plaza Mayor, calle Gerona, Plaza de la Provincia, return to church
Easter Saturday
4.30PM, Concepción Real de Calatrava, calle Alcalá, 25, Metro Sevilla. “Paso”: Nuestra Señora de la Soledad. Route: calle Alcalá, Puerta del Sol, calle Arenal, calle de las Hileras, Plaza de Herradores, calle de las Fuentes, Plaza Comandante de las Morenas, Plaza de San Miguel , calle de Conde de Miranda, Plazuela del Conde de Miranda, calle del Codo, Plaza la Villa (encuentro with paso Cristo Yacente from the Encarnacion monastery, two processions join), calle Mayor, Puerta del Sol, carrera de San Jerónimo, Plaza de Canalejas, calle Sevilla, calle Alcalá, return to church
4.30PM, Real Monasterio de la Encarnación(Metro Opera). “Paso” Santísimo Cristo Yacente. Route Plaza de la Encarnación, calle San Quintín, calle Pavía, Plaza de Oriente, calle Lepanto, plaza de Ramales, plaza de Santiago, calle de Señores de Luzón, calle Mayor, Plaza de la Villa ENCUENTRO and this procession joins La Soledad around 6pm, two processions continue together.
Easter Sunday
11.45 Monasterio Corpus Christi (Carboneras). Metros Opera and Sol. “Tamborrada”, drumming procession. Route: Monasterio Corpus Christi (Carboneras), Plaza Conde de Miranda, metro Sol or Opera. Route: calle Puñonrostro, calle San Justo, calle del Cordón, plaza de la Villa, calle Mayor, calle Ciudad Rodrigo y Plaza Mayor. Reaches the Plaza Mayor about noon. Try to arrive early and scout the area between the Plaza Mayor and the Plaza de la Villa. Seeing them come into the square on calle Ciudad Rodrigo is thrilling!
Many other churches have processions, in outlying towns as well as in the city, so check the door of your neighborhood church – they may have a procession, too.
Tips to see the best: Wherever you see Easter processions, keep in mind:
“Pasos”: To help you decide what to see or know what to watch for, look at the information about the “pasos” in the procession information. It may include the number of “pasos” in each procession, the names of the “pasos”, their sculptor and date of creation (most of Madrid’s are modern but in other cities some are hundreds of years old), something about local traditions or the popularity of a specific “paso”.
Special processions: With the information in hand, look for the processions with some unusual feature: silent, by candlelight, barefoot “paso” bearers, women bearers, special robes or special traditions during a procession.
“Encuentros” Some of the best processions have an “Encuentro” (meeting) between two processions, with a greeting of some sort between the “pasos” – bearers can make them dance, sway or bow.
Best moments: One of the most emotional moments of the processions is when the “pasos” leave their church at the start of a procession – and when they enter the church after the procession. There may be a church service coinciding with these times.
Procession routes: If you have time, try to find out the procession route beforehand, and walk it to see the best places to watch or take photos: steep or narrow streets, gates of the old city walls, overhanging balconies, by churches, places where the “Encuentros” take place are all good for photos. The italics above should help you pick good places in Madrid. It may also be worthwhile to find the side streets that let you reach another procession route or escape crowds – these events can be VERY crowded so an escape route can come in handy. Keep this in mind if you plan to go with small children or people with reduced mobility.